måndag 9 oktober 2017

Huslighet och styrketräning


While the cooking mania lasted she went through Mrs. Cornelius's Receipt Book as if it were a mathematical exercise, working out the problems with patience and care. Sometimes her family were invited in to help eat up a too bounteous feast of successes, or Lotty would be privately despatched with a batch of failures, which were to be concealed from all eyes in the convenient stomachs of the little Hummels. An evening with John over the account-books usually produced a temporary lull in the culinary enthusiasm, and a frugal fit would ensue, during which the poor man was put through a course of bread-pudding, hash, and warmed-over coffee, which tried his soul, although he bore it with praiseworthy fortitude. Before the golden mean was found, however, Meg added to her domestic possessions what young couples seldom get on long without,—a family jar.

Fired with a housewifely wish to see her store-room stocked with home-made preserves, she undertook to put up her own currant jelly. John was requested to order home a dozen or so of little pots, and an extra quantity of sugar, for their own currants were ripe, and were to be attended to at once. As John firmly believed that "my wife" was equal to anything, and took a natural pride in her skill, he resolved that she should be gratified, and their only crop of fruit laid by in a most pleasing form for winter use. Home came four dozen delightful little pots, half a barrel of sugar, and a small boy to pick the currants for her. With her pretty hair tucked into a little cap, arms bared to the elbow, and a checked apron which had a coquettish look in spite of the bib, the young housewife fell to work, feeling no doubts about her success; for hadn't she seen Hannah do it hundreds of times? The array of pots rather amazed her at first, but John was so fond of jelly, and the nice little jars would look so well on the top shelf, that Meg resolved to fill them all, and spent a long day picking, boiling, straining, and fussing over her jelly. She did her best; she asked advice of Mrs. Cornelius; she racked her brain to remember what Hannah did that she had left undone; she reboiled, resugared, and restrained, but that dreadful stuff wouldn't "jell."

She longed to run home, bib and all, and ask mother to lend a hand, but John and she had agreed that they would never annoy any one with their private worries, experiments, or quarrels. They had laughed over that last word as if the idea it suggested was a most preposterous one; but they had held to their resolve, and whenever they could get on without help they did so, and no one interfered, for Mrs. March had advised the plan. So Meg wrestled alone with the refractory sweetmeats all that hot summer day, and at five o'clock sat down in her topsy-turvy kitchen, wrung her bedaubed hands, lifted up her voice and wept.
                                   ur Little Women, av Louisa M. Alcott

Vi har väl alla, någon gång, misslyckats i köket  en platt kaka, vidbränd middagsmat eller som här, gelé som inte vill stanna. Då kan det vara skönt att ha en Mrs. Conrad att luta sig emot. Och Mrs. Conrad når du med ett par klick, för hon finns hos Gutenberg.  
Hennes kokbok är avsedd för unga kvinnor (1858 var kvinnas plats i köket), och är fortfarande användbar, med sina enkla anvisningar. Så här skriver hon om vinbär:
Currants.
Weigh equal quantities of sugar, and fruit stripped from the stems. Boil the fruit ten minutes, stirring it often, and crushing it. Add the sugar, and boil another ten minutes. Measure the time from the minute boiling commences. This keeps till currants come again. Clean brown sugar does very well. If it is to be used up in the course of the autumn, ten or twelve ounces of sugar to a pound of fruit is enough.

Currant Jelly.
Pick over the fruit, but leave it on the stems. Put it into the preserving kettle, and break it with a ladle or spoon, and when it is hot, squeeze it in a coarse linen bag until you can press out no more juice. Then weigh a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Sift the sugar, and heat it as hot as possible without dissolving or burning; boil the juice five minutes very fast, and while boiling add the hot sugar, stir it well, and when it has boiled again five minutes, set it off. The time must be strictly observed. Jelly to eat with meat does very well made with brown sugar, but must boil longer.

Another (without boiling).
Squeeze the currants in a coarse linen cloth, without taking off the stems. Weigh the juice, and allow a pound for a pound. The sugar should be sifted, and stirred in with the hand until it feels smooth and well dissolved. Put it into glasses, and set them in the sun near a window for two or three days. Then cover as directed for preserves and jellies. This will taste like newly made currant jelly at the end of a year, if kept in a cool and dry place. It will not keep well in a damp house.

Varför stackars Meg misslyckades är mer än jag kan säga, men erfarenheten har lärt mig att det mesta kan gå åt skogen, hur noga man än följer ett recept.
Men kex som kräver, inte bara noggrannhet utan även kroppskrafter och tålamod, är inget för mig:
Litchfield Crackers.
To one pint of cold milk, put a piece of butter the size of an egg, a small teaspoonful of salt, and one egg. Rub the butter into a quart of flour, then add the egg and milk. Knead in more flour until it is as stiff as it can possibly be made, and pound it with an iron pestle, or the broad end of a flat-iron, for at least one hour; then roll it very thin, cut it into rounds, prick, and bake in a quick oven, twelve or fifteen minutes.
Räknade Mrs. Conrad med att man hade en Hannah som kunde utföra grovjobbet?
För många år sedan skrev jag om Beaten Biscuits, och minns då att jag tog en tur på nätet för att lära mig mer om detta kraftprov, och fann att det faktiskt fanns särskilda maskiner som skulle bearbeta den sortens deg. Kanske kan jag vid tillfälle hitta de artiklarna igen.

2 kommentarer:

  1. Jag fattar inte hur du kan hålla reda på hur något i en bok passar ihop med något i en annan bok + något du skrev om för flera år sedan!
    Kul med kexen, det hade jag inte läst om förr, måste ha varit innan jag hittade din blog.
    Men en del av recepten är nog fortfarande bra.

    Hoppas det går att kommentera nu, det har inte gått på hela dan.

    SvaraRadera
    Svar
    1. Kajsa,
      Ibland har jag tur, och sådant som hänger ihop råkar dyka upp ungefär samtidigt.
      Men jag antecknar också - mer än jag kan hålla reda på.
      Margaretha

      Radera